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Enclosed to the east by the Altaj massif and to the east by the chain of the of the Gran Kingan, Inner Mongolia was once a single territory together with Outer Mongolia, from which it was separated in the seventeenth century. Earlier still it was the land of Genghis Khan and his hordes: “the people that lives in tents made of cloth” as the chronicler Matthew Paris wrote. It was precisely as a protection against the bloody Mongol invasions that the Great Chinese Wall was built, and the fact that it was built at the south of this province, and that it extends all along the southern border, says a great deal about the origins of this land. Today, that ancient and remote kingdom of Asia no longer exists, but the nomads, with their customs and ancestral traditions have remained almost the same. They still live in the shacks called “yurts”, and the men and women still travel across the immensity of this desert territory with their huge herds. In this land, where the rules of life have not altered over the centuries, where hospitality is an innate pleasure and not a duty, everything appears in different, almost timeless, dimensions. But Inner Mongolia is not just steppes and horsemen, it is also the desert with its oceans of dunes, its barren uplands and its enchanting colours, where the caravans of long-haired camels travel the eternal tracks. Unfortunately, the residential centres of Inner Mongolia have been corrupted by progress; they have lost the genuine flavour of this country and inherited the ills of industrialisation.
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Chemical and metallurgical factories have brought the cities of Inner Mongolia to elevated levels of pollution; the air is unbreathable, and 96% of the little water to be found is undrinkable because of the arsenic. And so we have to distance ourselves from the residential centres to find the unknown and mysterious land, the nomadic Mongols and their herds of Cashmere goats, which still continue to live at the rhythms of the past.
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